Trip Facts
Duration:
24 Days
Max Altitude:
Kang La pass, 5,360 m (17,585 ft)
Activities:
Remote high-altitude camping trek
Region:
Dolpo (Shey Phoksundo National Park)
Starting Point:
Kathmandu
Ending Point:
Kathmandu
Grade:
Challenging
Group Size:
Min 2
Best Season:
April-May and September-October
Overview of Upper Dolpo Trek 24-Days
The Upper Dolpo Trek is a 24-day camping expedition into the high Tibetan-influenced country of western Nepal, a region that stayed closed to outsiders until 1989 and still feels like another world. Cut off behind the Dhaulagiri range and the Tibetan Plateau, Dolpo is a land of barren high-desert valleys, deep gorges, ancient Buddhist and Bon villages, and some of the warmest hospitality you will find anywhere in Nepal. It is the setting of Peter Matthiessen’s classic 1978 book The Snow Leopard and of the Oscar-nominated 1999 film Himalaya (released in some countries as Caravan).
The whole route lies inside Shey Phoksundo National Park, at 3,555 km² the largest and only trans-Himalayan national park in Nepal, established in 1984. The park protects snow leopard, grey wolf, musk deer, and blue sheep, and holds the jewel of the trek, Phoksundo Lake (3,612 m), a striking turquoise lake up to 145 m deep, among the deepest in the country. The cultural heart of the journey is the centuries-old Crystal Monastery (Shey Gompa), one of the most revered gompas in Nepal, reached over the Kang La pass at 5,360 m, the highest point of the trek.
From the airstrip at Jhupal the trail follows the Phoksundo river to the lake, crosses Kang La and Saldang La (about 5,010 m) into the hidden valleys of Saldang and Dho Tarap, then descends the long Tarap valley back to Dunai. Along the way you pass Bon villages where a pre-Buddhist faith still shapes daily life, mani walls and chortens, and views toward Dhaulagiri and the peaks of the Kanjiroba Himal. Because Dolpo sits in the rain shadow of the main Himalaya, it stays relatively dry even in the monsoon, which makes its trekking window unusually flexible.
Spade Himalaya runs this trek as a full camping expedition with a licensed Dolpo-experienced guide, a cook and kitchen crew, and a pulse oximeter for daily health checks. This is not a first-timer’s trek: the remoteness, altitude, and camping demand strong fitness and ideally previous Himalayan experience. If you are after a less committing introduction, the Everest Base Camp Trek or Annapurna Base Camp Trek are gentler first journeys. For comparable wildness, the remote Makalu Base Camp Trek and the restricted Manaslu Circuit Trek are the closest cousins to Dolpo.
Trips Highlights
- Trek through Upper Dolpo, one of the most remote and restricted regions in Nepal
- Visit the centuries-old Crystal Monastery (Shey Gompa), made famous by The Snow Leopard
- Camp beside the turquoise Phoksundo Lake (3,612 m), one of Nepal's deepest lakes
- Cross the high passes of Kang La (5,360 m) and Saldang La (about 5,010 m)
- Explore Shey Phoksundo National Park, Nepal's largest and only trans-Himalayan park
- Walk through Tibetan-influenced Bon and Buddhist villages: Saldang, Dho Tarap, and Tarakot
- See rugged, high-desert landscapes that feel more like Tibet than Nepal
- Meet the warm, welcoming people of Dolpo, where children rush out to greet trekkers
- Look out toward Dhaulagiri and the peaks of the Kanjiroba Himal
- Experience a true tented camping expedition far beyond the teahouse trails
Route Details
Fly into Jhupal, walk up the Phoksundo valley to the lake, cross Kang La to the Crystal Monastery, traverse via Saldang La into the Saldang and Dho Tarap valleys, then descend the Tarap gorge to Dunai for the flight home.
Kathmandu (1,400 m) → fly to Nepalgunj → fly to Jhupal (2,320 m) → Dunai (2,150 m) → Chhepka (2,838 m) → Rechi (2,940 m) → Phoksundo Lake (3,600 m) → Thulodhunga (3,607 m) → Phoksundo Bhanjyang (4,400 m) → Kang La pass (5,360 m) → Shey Gompa (4,126 m) → Saldang La pass (5,010 m) → Namgung (4,400 m) → Saldang (3,620 m) → Rakyo (4,160 m) → High Camp (4,560 m) → Tokyu (4,209 m) → Dho Tarap (4,040 m) → Nawarpani (3,470 m) → Laina Odar (3,370 m) → Tarakot (2,537 m) → Dunai → fly out via Jhupal and Nepalgunj to Kathmandu.
Trips Itinerary
A Spade Himalaya representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. You meet your guide for a detailed pre-trip briefing, since a Dolpo expedition needs careful preparation, and the team checks your gear and completes the restricted-area paperwork. The evening is free in Thamel. Bring your passport, passport photos, and a copy of your insurance.
A short guided tour of Kathmandu’s highlights in the morning, then an afternoon flight to Nepalgunj, a warm city on the southern plains near the Indian border. Overnight here positions you for the early mountain flight to Dolpo, as there is no direct flight to Jhupal from Kathmandu.
- Duration: Flight: about 1 hr ·
A spectacular early flight lands on the tiny mountain airstrip at Jhupal. After meeting the camping crew, you walk down through terraced fields and along the Bheri river to Dunai, the administrative town of Dolpa district. It is a gentle first day that eases you into the rhythm of the trail and the remoteness of the region.
- Duration: Walking: 3 to 4 hrs ·
The trail enters Shey Phoksundo National Park and follows the Phoksundo river upstream through a deep, forested gorge. You cross suspension bridges and pass small settlements, gaining height steadily through pine and walnut forest to the camp at Chhepka. Keep an eye out for wildlife in this rich lower valley.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A scenic day continuing up the river valley, weaving between forest, cliffs, and riverbank. The landscape slowly opens out and dries as you climb deeper into the park. Rechi is a peaceful riverside camp, a good place to rest before the climb to the lake.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A shorter but rewarding day. A steep climb leads to a ridge with a view of Nepal’s tallest waterfall, then descends to the shore of Phoksundo Lake. The first sight of its vivid turquoise water, ringed by cliffs and the village of Ringmo, is one of the great moments of the trek. Camp by the lake.
- Duration: Walking: 4 to 5 hrs ·
An important acclimatization day in a stunning setting. You can visit the old Bon monastery above Ringmo village, walk along the lakeshore, or climb a little for higher views over the water. Resting here, climbing high and sleeping low, prepares your body for the high passes ahead.
- Duration: Walking: 2 to 4 hrs ·
You follow the famous trail carved into the cliff above the western shore of Phoksundo Lake, a dramatic, exposed path with superb views, then continue along the upper Phoksundo river. The landscape turns wild and remote as you camp at Thulodhunga, deep in the inner valleys.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A steady climb up the valley toward the foot of Kang La, gaining real altitude into open, barren high country. The vegetation thins and the air cools as you reach the camp at Phoksundo Bhanjyang, set among meadows below the pass. An early night before the big crossing.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
The highest day of the trek. A steady climb leads to the prayer-flag-draped top of Kang La at 5,360 m, with sweeping views over the Dolpo ranges. A long descent then brings you into the hidden valley of the Crystal Monastery, Shey Gompa, the spiritual heart of inner Dolpo. Camp near the gompa beneath Crystal Mountain.
- Duration: Walking: 6 to 7 hrs .
A day to explore the Crystal Monastery and its surroundings, an ancient and revered site of Buddhist and Bon pilgrimage. You can walk the kora around Crystal Mountain, visit the gompa, and soak in the timeless atmosphere of a place few outsiders ever see. The rest also aids acclimatization for the next pass.
- Duration: Walking: 2 to 4 hrs ·
Another high crossing. The trail climbs to Saldang La, with more wide Dolpo panoramas, then descends into the Nam Khong valley to the small monastery settlement of Namgung. The country here is stark, dry, and beautiful, a true high-desert landscape under huge skies.
- Duration: Walking: 6 to 7 hrs.
A descent to Saldang, one of the largest and most prosperous villages in Upper Dolpo, strung along a hillside above the river. Its fields, chortens, and trading links with Tibet make it a fascinating place to walk through and rest in the heart of the inhabited high valleys.
- Duration: Walking: 4 to 5 hrs ·
The trail leads through more Tibetan-influenced villages and dry, rolling country toward Rakyo, passing mani walls, chortens, and grazing yaks. Each settlement has its own character, and the sense of remoteness deepens with every valley you cross.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A climb to a high camp set among open pasture and ridges, positioning you for the crossing toward the Tarap valley. The big altitude and the camping add to the challenge, but the silence and the star-filled nights of Dolpo are unforgettable.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A long day crossing a high ridge (around the Jeng La area) into the Tarap valley, with grand views back over the country you have walked. You descend to Tokyu, a village with an old monastery, surrounded by barley fields high in the Tarap valley.
- Duration: Walking: 6 to 7 hrs ·
A short, easy day down the Tarap valley to Dho Tarap, one of the highest permanent settlements in the region and a melting pot of Bon and Buddhist culture. The afternoon is free to explore the village, its gompas, and meet its famously welcoming people.
- Duration: Walking: about 2 hrs
The long descent down the Tarap gorge begins. The trail follows the Tarap Chu river through a dramatic, narrowing canyon, dropping steadily out of the high desert. The change in landscape, vegetation, and air is striking as you lose altitude toward Nawarpani.
- Duration: Walking: 6 to 7 hrs ·
You continue down the gorge, crossing and recrossing the river on narrow trails and bridges, through some of the wildest scenery of the trek. Camp at Laina Odar, a riverside spot deep in the canyon, with the sound of the water all around.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A scenic descent brings you to Tarakot, an old fortress village above the Bheri river, once an important trading and administrative center. The greenery and warmth of the lower valleys feel welcome after the high, dry country of Upper Dolpo.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs ·
A final walk along the Bheri river back to Dunai, then a short drive up to Jhupal for the night near the airstrip. It is a relaxed last day on the trail, with time to thank your camping crew and celebrate the completion of a true Himalayan expedition.
- Duration: Walking: 5 to 6 hrs
A morning flight from Jhupal to Nepalgunj, then on to Kathmandu, weather permitting. Mountain flights here can be delayed, so patience helps. On arrival you are transferred to your hotel, with the rest of the day free to rest and clean up after weeks in the field.
- Duration: Flight: most of the day ·
A free or guided day in the Kathmandu valley, a sensible buffer in case the Jhupal flight was delayed. You can revisit favourite sites, shop for souvenirs in Thamel, or simply relax. In the evening, Spade Himalaya presents your trip-completion certificate.
- Duration: Walking: light ·
A Spade Himalaya representative transfers you to the international airport for your onward flight, marking the end of your Upper Dolpo Trek.
Trips Include
- Airport transfers in a private vehicle
- 4 nights' hotel in Kathmandu (twin share) with breakfast
- 1 night hotel in Nepalgunj with breakfast
- All domestic flights: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj to Jhupal and back, for clients and crew
- Full-board meals during the camping trek, prepared by an expert cook, with tea and coffee, plus fresh fruit each evening
- Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit, the Upper Dolpo restricted-area permit, and the Lower Dolpo permit
- A licensed, experienced English-speaking guide
- Porter support, one porter per two trekkers
- First-aid kit
- Guided Kathmandu sightseeing
Trips Exclude
- International airfare to and from Nepal
- Nepal entry visa (US$30 for 15 days, US$50 for 30 days, US$125 for 90 days)
- Travel and medical insurance (mandatory; must cover high-altitude trekking and helicopter evacuation)
- Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
- Kathmandu sightseeing monument entrance fees (about US$30 per person)
- Drinks, snacks, and desserts beyond the catered meals
- Hot showers and device charging where available
- Tips for guide, crew, and porters
- Excess baggage over 10 kg for the Jhupal flight
- Personal expenses and any costs from early return, trip extension, or unforeseen events (weather, flight delays, strikes)
- Anything not listed under Trips Includes
Trips Altitude
Packing List
General
- Four-season (zero degree) sleeping bag
- Sleeping bag liner
- Puffy down jacket
- Duffel bag
- Daypack, 30 to 45 litres, with a rain cover
Upper Body
- Warm hat or beanie that covers the ears
- Neck gaiter, buff, or scarf
- Sunglasses with UV protection (essential in the high desert glare)
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Sunscreen (SPF 35 to 60) and lip balm
- Technical base-layer tops (long and short sleeve)
- Fleece jacket or wool pullover
- Waterproof, windproof shell jacket
Lower Body
- Thermal base-layer trousers
- Comfortable trekking trousers
- Casual or sport trousers for camp
- Waterproof, windproof shell trousers
Hands
- Wool or technical liner gloves
- Insulated shell outer gloves (the high passes are bitterly cold)
- Light gloves for using walking poles (optional)
Feet
- Waterproof trekking boots (well broken in)
- 4 to 5 pairs of warm wool socks and sock liners
- Light shoes or sandals for camp
- Micro spikes or instep crampons (useful on the passes with snow)
- Gaiters (light for dust, heavier for snow)
Undergarments
- Quick-drying technical underwear
- Sports bras (women)
- Thermal underwear set for cold nights
First Aid Kits
Your guide carries a comprehensive kit, medication, and a pulse oximeter, but a personal kit is strongly recommended in such a remote region.
- Assorted adhesive and butterfly bandages
- Blister treatment cream and antiseptic ointment
- Ibuprofen or other pain relief
- Altitude medication such as acetazolamide (Diamox), only if advised by your doctor
- Insect or anti-itch ointment
- Water-purification tablets
Others
- Passport, 4 passport-size photos, and a copy of your insurance and flight details
- Reusable water bottle and a water filter or purifier
- Toiletry kit, quick-dry towel, toilet paper, hand wipes, and soap
- High-energy snacks (bars, nuts, dried fruit)
- Waterproof or dry bags for documents and electronics
Optional
- Trekking poles
- Power bank and spare batteries (charging is rare in Dolpo)
- Camera with memory cards, charger, and spare batteries
Good to Know
Before you go
- Permits and ID. Bring your passport, four passport photos, and a readable copy of your insurance to the pre-trip meeting so Spade Himalaya can arrange the Upper Dolpo and Lower Dolpo restricted-area permits and the national park entry permit.
- Money. Carry enough Nepalese rupees in cash from Kathmandu. There are no ATMs or card facilities in Dolpo, and very little to buy on the trail, so budget for tips and a few personal extras only.
- Buffer days. Flights to and from Jhupal via Nepalgunj are weather-dependent and often delayed. Keep spare days before any onward international flight.
Reaching Dolpo means flying first to Nepalgunj on the southern plains, then onto the small mountain airstrip at Jhupal, since there is no direct flight from Kathmandu. As a restricted area, Upper Dolpo can only be trekked with a licensed guide on an organised, permitted trip. Spade Himalaya is a registered agency, so your permits, flights, camping logistics, and emergency cover are all handled end to end.
The itinerary follows the climb-high, sleep-low principle with rest days at Phoksundo Lake and Shey Gompa before and between the high passes. Drink 3 to 4 litres of water a day, walk slowly, avoid alcohol up high, and tell your guide early if you feel unwell. Carry altitude medication if your doctor advises it. Given the remoteness, descending and helicopter evacuation are the only serious responses to severe altitude sickness.
- Accommodation. Full-board tented camps throughout, with a dining tent, kitchen tent, and toilet tents, set up by your crew. Nights are cold, so the provided or personal sleeping bag matters.
- Food. All meals are cooked fresh by the expedition cook, with as much variety as the remote supply chain allows, plus fresh fruit in the evenings. Resources are scarce in Dolpo, so a flexible attitude helps.
- Drinking water. Refill and purify with tablets or a filter; bottled water is essentially unavailable in this region.
- Respecting Dolpo. This is a fragile, traditional culture. Walk clockwise around mani walls and chortens, ask before photographing people or shrines, and tread lightly in villages that see very few visitors.
Trips Reviews
Smooth and flexible itinerary in winter
Strong safety management in harsh conditions
Excellent organization on a demanding winter route
Trips FAQs
Trek Overview: Why Choose the Upper Dolpo Trek?
Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, is a centuries-old and deeply revered Buddhist and Bon site in the hidden heart of inner Dolpo. It was made famous worldwide by Peter Matthiessen’s 1978 book The Snow Leopard. You reach it over the Kang La pass and spend a rest day there, walking the pilgrim kora around Crystal Mountain and visiting the gompa.
The trek runs through Shey Phoksundo National Park, home to snow leopard, grey wolf, musk deer, and blue sheep, though the snow leopard is famously elusive. Culturally, Dolpo is one of the last strongholds of the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, alongside Tibetan Buddhism, seen in its monasteries, mani walls, chortens, and the daily life of villages like Saldang and Dho Tarap.
Trek Difficulty: Who Can Trek?
It is graded challenging and is one of the hardest treks in Nepal. You spend over three weeks in a remote region, cross high passes including Kang La (5,360 m), sleep many nights above 4,000 m, and camp throughout. There is no technical climbing, but strong fitness and ideally previous Himalayan trekking experience are essential. This is not a beginner’s trek.
Guide Requirement & Trek Regulations
Yes. Upper Dolpo is a restricted area, so by law you must trek with a government-licensed guide through a registered agency and carry a special restricted-area permit. Independent trekking is not allowed. Spade Himalaya arranges the Upper Dolpo permit, the Lower Dolpo permit, and the Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit, and provides the licensed guide and full camping crew.
The Upper Dolpo restricted-area permit costs US$500 per person for the first 10 days, then US$50 per person per day beyond that (Nepal Department of Immigration, retrieved 2026-06-17). You also need a Lower Dolpo permit and the Shey Phoksundo National Park entry fee (about NPR 3,000). Spade Himalaya includes all of these in the trip cost and handles the paperwork.
Accommodation and Camping Experience
It is a fully catered camping trek. Food and lodging are scarce in Dolpo and cannot be relied upon, so you sleep in tents with a full crew, including a cook, and all meals are prepared for you. Some basic teahouses exist in a few villages, but the trek is run as a self-sufficient expedition, which is part of what makes it such an adventure.
Best Time to Trek Upper Dolpo
Late spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) are the best windows, with clear skies and a low chance of pass-blocking snow. Because Dolpo lies in the rain shadow behind the main Himalaya, it stays relatively dry even during the summer monsoon, so it is also one of the few regions in Nepal that can be trekked in the monsoon months.
Trekker's Well-Being & Safety
Very remote. Getting there means flying to Nepalgunj, then to the tiny Jhupal airstrip, where weather often delays flights, so build in buffer days. With several passes near or above 5,000 m, altitude is a real risk: the itinerary includes rest days at Phoksundo Lake and Shey Gompa, your guide carries a pulse oximeter, and evacuation here means a helicopter, which is why comprehensive insurance is essential.
Yes, it is mandatory and critical here. Your policy must explicitly cover high-altitude trekking and helicopter evacuation, since Dolpo is far from any road and a rescue can only be done by air. Arrange it in your home country before you fly, and leave a copy with Spade Himalaya at the pre-trip meeting so the team can act fast in an emergency.
